The Rise of Transparent Wood Finishes and Imitation Hardwoods:

• There’s a growing preference for finishes that enhance the natural beauty of wood rather than concealing it with paint.
• The increasing scarcity of hardwoods has led to the popularity of materials that mimic their appearance while utilizing more sustainable softwoods.

Importance of Testing:

• Always test dyes and finishing coats on scrap wood to see how the colour changes upon application and to ensure compatibility between the stain and the topcoat.
• Remember that transparent finishes will accentuate any flaws or blemishes in the wood, requiring meticulous preparation for a natural look.

Dyes and Wood Stains:

• Oil-based: Slower drying, less penetration, but less prone to overlap marks. Seal with shellac after drying.
• Stain Preservatives: Primarily for exterior wood, offering both colour and protection (often including fungicide). Thin consistency, deep penetration, less likely to peel, suitable for bare or previously stained wood.
• Water-based: Easy to use, fade-resistant. Best applied after sanding and dampening the wood to raise the grain. Seal with sanding sealer before the final finish.
• Varnish with Stain: Combines polyurethane varnish and wood stain. Stain sits more on the surface, and each coat darkens the wood. Consider a clear varnish coat first or after achieving the desired shade for a lighter finish. Thin the first coat for better adhesion (“keying”).

Varnishes:

• Dust is a major concern during application. Thin the first coat for better adhesion.
• Acrylic Varnish: Quick-drying, non-toxic, water-washable brushes. Available in gloss, satin, and matt.
• Exterior Varnish: Microporous (allows wood to breathe), contains UV filter for sun protection and fungicide for mould prevention.
• Polyurethane Varnish: Clear, tough surface in gloss, satin, and matt. Heat and solvent resistant once fully hardened.
• Yacht Varnish: High gloss, based on Tung oil and phenolic resins. Extremely durable and resistant to sea, fresh water, and all weather conditions. Excellent for all exterior timber.

Polishes (Traditional Internal Furniture Finishes):

• French Polish: Made from shellac and alcohol, designed for a high-quality finish on furniture. Variations include:
  • White Polish: Bleached white shellac.
  • Button Polish: Button shellac, produces an orange colour.
  • Ebony Polish: Jet-black finish.
  • Garnet Polish: Deep rich brown cast.
  • French polishing kits are available for beginners.
• Wax Polish: Good quality with beeswax cleans grime and leaves a hard, protective coating with a natural sheen. Traditional wax is free of added oils, colour, or perfume. Available in liquid, paste, brushing wax, coloured waxes, and staining waxes.

Oils:

• Danish Oil: Excellent for pine, based on Tung oil for protection and durability. Low luster, natural finish.
• Finishing Oil: Revives old wood, can be used as an oil finish or as preparation before waxing.
• Lemon Oil: Suitable for teak and matt finished woods where wax isn’t desired. Fresh lemon aroma.
• Linseed Oil: Natural product (available natural and boiled). Generally not recommended for wood finishing (except cricket bats) as it can become gummy and sticky over time.
• Teak Oil: Based on Tung oil and resins, quick-drying, penetrating seal for teak and similar woods. Slight sheen when dry.
• Tung Oil: Superior to linseed oil, water-resistant, easy rag application.

Two-Part Coatings:

• Cold cure lacquers requiring mixing before application. Highly resistant to heat, solvents, and abrasion. Can be polished to a high gloss or rubbed down to a satin or matt finish.
• Produce a very hard finish but can be susceptible to chipping and difficult to repair or remove.

This detailed information provides a solid foundation for understanding the various options available for enhancing and protecting wood while maintaining its natural beauty. Remember the importance of testing and proper preparation for achieving the best results.